When sport climbing made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo Games three years ago, the sports’ three disciplines — speed, bouldering, and lead — were combined into one event. As a result, the most well-rounded climbers finished on the podium over climbers who specialize in specific disciplines.
In Paris, the sport will be divided into two Olympic disciplines: speed and boulder/lead combined. This is generally seen as an improvement from Tokyo because bouldering and lead are more similar to each other than speed is to either.
Women's speed: Toss up for the podium
Despite the depth of talent in this field, it's difficult to predict who will be on the podium due to the high margin of error in the discipline. False starts and falls are common, so the Olympic champion in Paris may not be the fastest climber, but the one who’s most consistent.
Poland's two climbers, Aleksandra Miroslaw and Aleksandra Kalucka, are two of the world's fastest climbers. Miroslaw holds the world record time of 6.24 seconds and has two world championship titles.
The American climbers aren’t to be overlooked. Team USA’s Emma Hunt and Piper Kelly may be podium threats with their unique strategy. Both women grab holds with only one hand rather than the two that most of their competitors reach with. This approach eliminates a movement to help Hunt and Kelly scale up the wall quickly. Hunt holds the American women’s speed record with a run time of 6.30 seconds.
Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi of Indonesia may be a podium contender as the 2023 World Sport Climbing Championships winner in women’s speed.
Men's speed: Will Sam Watson break another world record?
American Sam Watson is the current world record holder in men’s speed with a time of 4.79 seconds, which he achieved at the International Federation of Sport Climbing World Cup event in April. Although he’s likely to wind up on the podium, Watson’s speed doesn’t guarantee anything. He finished second at the same World Cup event after a final run time of 5.11 seconds against China’s Wu Peng. Wu is a two-time World Cup winner who climbed the wall in 4.88 seconds at the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) event in Shanghai.
Watson’s greatest opponent is Indonesian Veddriq Leonardo, who broke past world records in 2021 and again in 2023. Though he hasn’t beaten Watson’s time in competition yet, he got close at the OQS event in Shanghai, where he earned a time of 4.83 seconds.
Zach Hammer will also be competing for Team USA.
Women's bouldering and lead combined: Janja Garnbret heavy favorite to win
Slovenian Janja Garnbret is the undeniable favorite to win Olympic gold in Paris. The defending Olympic gold medalist from Tokyo has won every World Cup event since last June and hasn't finished off the podium in almost five years.
Japanese climbers Ai Mori and Miho Nonaka also have a strong shot at a medal. Nonaka won silver at the Tokyo Games while Mori is world-ranked No. 3 in boulder and lead combined heading into Paris.
Americans Natalia Grossman and Brooke Raboutou are also in the mix for a podium position. The two are well-versed in both bouldering and lead. Grossman placed first in bouldering at the 2024 World Cup event in Salt Lake City and has several strong finishes in lead. Raboutou placed fifth at the Tokyo Games and finished first at both OQS events this year.
Nineteen-year-old Oriane Bertone of France is the host country’s best chance at a medal but has only finished on the podium in bouldering events.
Men's bouldering and lead combined: Austria, Japan major podium threats
Jakob Schubert of Austria is the favorite to win Olympic gold in Paris. He’s the defending Olympic bronze medalist and is poised for a podium position as the reigning combined world champion.
Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki may be hot on Schubert’s heels. He missed out on the Olympic podium in Tokyo after Schubert squeezed above him by one point. Narasaki is heading into Paris with a World Cup win in bouldering from earlier this year and as the third-place finisher from the 2023 World Sport Climbing Championships.
Sorato Anraku, also from Japan, is another medal contender. He tops the field as the highest-ranked climber in bouldering and lead combined approaching the Games.
Great Britain’s Toby Roberts has emerged as a mainstay in the discipline with eight World Cup podium finishes in his first two years of competing at the senior level.
American Colin Duffy, who debuted as the youngest climber in Tokyo, has the potential to land on the podium in Paris. He won silver in bouldering and lead combined at the 2023 World Sport Climbing Championships and placed first in lead at the 2024 World Cup event in Chamonix, France. Fellow American Jesse Grupper will also compete.
Host country hero Sam Avezou may have an outside shot at the podium after a strong showing at the OQS event in Budapest in June.